I’ve trapped myself in a deli container dilemma. There’s a shelf in the fridge dedicated to an absurd amount of them, all with less than ¼ inch of anything left on the bottoms. Looking at them hurts my brain, but alas, I’ve been lazy (and busy binging Pamela Anderson’s cooking show). As I learned the hard way the other night, when the stale pita chips I tried to snack on almost cracked a tooth, the pantry needs a touch up, too. Earlier in the week, while rushing to put dishes away, balancing a salad spinner in one hand and a cutting board in the other, I dropped what felt like 10 pounds of wood onto my pinky toe, which now resembles a purple baby eggplant—we’re doing great! Today I will tend to the kitchen, and by doing so, it seems, I’ll also take care of myself.
Lately, some of our most delightful meals have involved less cooking than usual. Giant salads with copious toppings and spontaneous dressings have become a weeknight favorite. They’ve been a helpful way to use up whatever’s on hand, like nearly floppy celery, last little bits of cheese, and butts of dried-out bread (because homemade croutons are the best). The most important—and fun—part, in my opinion, has been improvising dressings: Tahini, lemon juice, marinated feta oil, pickled pepper brine, dried oregano, and minced garlic. Olive oil, honey vinegar, shallots, dijon, and black pepper. Gochujang, rice vinegar, sesame oil, lime juice, grated ginger, sugar, and shoyu. Amounts of each ingredient are optional and to taste, but a good amount of salt is always non-negotiable.
I also recently made Ham El-Waylly’s Kung Pao Tofu, with some minor substitutions in order for it to feel fitting for breakfast (but as my brilliant friend reminded me when I texted to rave about it, tofu is good any time of day). It was incredible. I pressed the tofu under a heavy pan for about 45 minutes, but a full hour (which the recipe doesn’t require, but recommends) would have probably made it better—the precise, bite-sized square cuts took on a nugget-like shape when I tossed them in cornstarch and salt, but they crisped up all the same. I sampled a piece straight out of the hot skillet for good measure, then a few more for pleasure. Once coated in sauce and mixed with eggs and vegetables, Sam described the texture of the tofu as “similar to orange chicken.” If you know him, you know the hold orange chicken has over his heart, and I needn’t say more.
Right now, I’m writing outdoors while watching a very adorable squirrel gnaw on a giant acorn (Boots is beside me, tied to the bench I’m sitting on, because he desperately wants to eat both). Because we’re in California and grappling with an egg shortage, I’m starting to think outside of the box for Easter (I consider deviled eggs a year-round food to return to, anyways). Sam and I got a secondhand Big Green Egg, and with warmer weather and the long weekend ahead, it feels like the right time to get it going. So, instead of sticking to a traditional Easter menu (at least as I’ve known one to look like), my plan is to rely on the charcoal grill to put together somewhat of a build-your-own lunch plate. Here’s what I’m thinking:
buttermilk biscuits with maple butter
grilled grapes and fennel salad with tarragon and toasted pecans
smoked macaroni and cheese with boatloads of black pepper and chives
Will there also be a blueberry cornbread cobbler for dessert? We’ll see how things go. In the meantime, I hope you’re eating well and hugging loved ones tight. My co-writer, Boots, does, too.
Lastly, here are the food-related subject lines of my inbox since my last newsletter—I think I’ll start using some as writing prompts…stay tuned:
Get Your Chef-Loved Butter Warmer!
Salmon roasted in butter, a perfect simple supper
Turn your kitchen into a Paris bistro—here’s how
Cut Like a Pro: Essential Knife Skills 🔪
Lazy daisy cake: great name, great cake
Smart Swaps for a Better Kitchen 🍽️
5 Cooking Habits That Change Everything 🍳
The Ultimate Brunch Lineup: Griddle, Recipes & More 🥞🥞
Chef's wisdom: A falling knife has no handle.
A gorgeous, herby, brilliant feast
🌱 See what's springing up in our kitchens.
Small Bites and Sizzling Steaks in Bilbao
Plastic in the Kitchen: Let’s Hold Hands and Not Freak Out
One-pot tortellini with peas and crispy prosciutto
More Madness, More Snacks, Less Stress 🏀
Perfect Grains & Sauces: Chefs' Secret Weapon
👩🍳 Your kitchen or ours?
Get Your Pans Covered!
One pot tomato and fennel brothy beans with Italian Herbs
The schmear index. 🥯
Ramadan Feasts Around the World
What Is A Baking Slab?
“This is actually a perfect recipe.”
🍽️ 15-minute lunches that'll make your coworkers jealous
8 surprising—and healthy—egg replacements
30+ new jobs for “cook”
Why everyone loves our turmeric
Give Your Menu a Spring Makeover 🌸
Recipes to celebrate the season of renewal
A Kitchen Full of Color